Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.
For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.
It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.
After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.
Puzzled as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.
After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.
Posted Jul 12 2011, 04:42 AM in Kawasaki Classics
Everything works fine on the bike except the Battery warning light.
I cannot find the electrolyte sensor that would have gone into the top of the original battery. The new replacement battery is not compatable with the sensor even if I could find it. Can anyone tell me where the sensor should go back to and can anyone tell me how to stop the Red warning light? TIA
Posted Jul 9 2011, 05:36 PM in Kawasaki Classics
I have just bought a gpz1100 a1 which doesn't have an oil cooler fitted.
Is it supposed to have one?
Would it be a problem in this country running one without the cooler?
Posted May 31 2011, 03:23 PM in Kawasaki Classics
Been a big fan of the old Zeds since a mate bought a Lawson in 83. (he still has it).
Passed my test and bought a gpz1100 b1 with a wiseco 1170 big bore kit. Lovely bike but a real pain to start. Several bikes later I managed to get a Lawson which I tottaly stripped down and painted then put back together. Life then got in the way and so she went aswell.
I've been playing with R1's for awhile now but still get the need to buy an old Zed again. So thats what I have done.
She is a 1984 GPZ1100, once again she needs a bit of work and a few parts.
I need a seat locking mechanism and I assume an oil cooler and pipe work for the cooler.
Should she have an oil cooler? The brackets are on the frame, but it could I supose a generic frame for all models.
Anyway thats me and thats where I am
Mine starts and runs fine apart from a really bad oil leak from I believe the crank shaft oil seal.
Posted May 30 2011, 11:51 AM in Welcome to the forum
I attempted to start my 1995 GPZ1100 with a Battery Tender Trickle Charger connected. I turned the key and everything went dead as though I blew something or shorted something out. Now, when the ignition switch is "off" the clock is getting juice, but when I turn the key "on" the power to the clock gets cut and nothing happens when I try to start.
The battery is fine as are all the fuses in the Junction Box and the fuse in the starter relay.
Help! Would I have damaged diodes in the Junction Box or something like that? Is there something else I could have burned out as a result of the charger having been attached?
Many thanks up front for advice!
Posted May 16 2011, 12:14 PM in Tech Talk
Posted Apr 18 2011, 06:12 PM in The Trading Post
There are 3 types of minimum thinkness. 3.5, 4.5 and 6mm.
The 6mm are rears only. So GPZ550, Z750's. Not GT550 and some Z650's as they were drum rear.
The 3.5's are fronts for EN450 A1-A5, EN500 A1-A3, GT550, Z1000 J1/J2, Z1000 K1 LTD, GPZ1100 B1 & Z1100 A1-A3.
The 4.5's are fronts for everything else.
3.5 and 4.5 discs are not interchangable. I bought some wrongly advertised ones off ebay, so tried it on my GT550 and the calipers and pads are completely different. It did give me a pair of spares for my GT750 though, so all's well that ends well.
If in doubt, then consult your Haynes book of lies or pop down to your local bike man/woman and they can look in their catalogue for compatable models.
Forks are a bit harder but general speaking I would think it's easier to go by the caliper mounting holes.
Posted Apr 2 2011, 08:57 AM in Kawasaki Classics
Look thru the oil fill hole to see if there are dings showing on the round aluminum clutch cover.
Bikes that can be affected: ZX10, ZX11C, ZX11D, GPZ750r, GPZ900r, GPZ1000rx, GPZ1100, ZZR1100, Concours, ZRX1100 & ZRX1200.
email: [email protected]
Phone: (209) 477-5309 Rex Turner (California)
PayPal: $12 plus $3 S/H = $15 to [email protected]
Also available thru ebay, username kleankawy
Posted Mar 28 2011, 08:34 PM in The Trading Post
Posted Mar 28 2011, 04:57 AM in Tech Talk
Posted Mar 24 2011, 05:24 PM in Tech Talk
Posted Mar 6 2011, 02:42 PM in Welcome to the forum
Posted Feb 18 2011, 05:30 PM in Welcome to the forum
The only problem I had with the bike was the bearings in the swinging arm linkages wore around 42k miles. Always kept serviced and otherwise didn't let me down.
Posted Jan 26 2011, 02:23 PM in Kawasaki Touring Models
Go down the Waterman occasionally on the way home from work and when I get the chance over to Bassetts Pole.
Will get avatar uploaded soon!
Posted Jan 15 2011, 05:20 PM in Welcome to the forum
I ride a 1998 gpz 1100 brilliant sport tourer before that 1983 gpz1100 a3
cant beat them
Posted Jan 2 2011, 08:04 PM in Kawasaki Chat
Posted Oct 28 2010, 07:21 PM in Tech Manuals
I was looking for one (but not too hard!) since it's 26 years since I sold the last one and this came up at a price I was prepared to pay. 5 days tax but 6 months MOT. It's dusty and needs a good clean and service. Result!
Posted Oct 27 2010, 02:48 PM in Kawasaki Classics
h***a VF1000F2F 1987 for sale if anyone interested!
Posted Oct 23 2010, 07:33 AM in Welcome to the forum
I have a GPz1100 A3 Unitrak in need of replacement front discs - one of them cracked. can anyone tell me if the discs off a Z1000J or GPz750 will fit? There are some second hand ones on Ebay somewhat cheaper than £114 for a new pair.
Posted Aug 27 2010, 08:22 AM in Tech Talk
I've got a thing for the '80s Kwacks (900R, 1000RX), but I like the newer stuff as well.
I live in Hampshire, I'm knocking on 40, and would be glad to hear from any of you, but especially those who could point me toward a workshop manual for a GPz11 A2!
Posted Aug 21 2010, 06:44 PM in Welcome to the forum