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Zxr 750 L1 Strip, Refurbish, And Rebuild........eventually!; NEW-TO-ME ZXR
Topic Started: Jan 11 2017, 07:25 PM (3,245 Views)
pa59ul
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Hello Fellas,

just got a new toy to play with, and like my other toys, the first thing I always do is take 'em apart, and put right what needs doing. Got my work cut out with this one, though. I know that not everyone has the knowledge,confidence or inclination to work on the bike themselves, but there is one undeniable fact; If you do it yourself (with a little help, if necessary), you know it's been done properly............. Mine hasn't.

The P.O. had the bike for four years, and trusted other people to 'maintain' the bike for him - check out the clutch fluid in the pic!

Got the bike stripped down to major components, and will be refurbing each bit in turn, subject to work commitments. The plan is to first get a rolling chassis, and carry on from there. With that in mind, the first job is to change out the wheel bearings (bike has 29k on the clock, so it's about time), and check the swingarm bearings for wear. Bit of frame paint here and there,and next up is the shock. When this was removed, the spring wasn't even under compression, the adjuster was backed off about 2mm from the spring.....

One thing's for sure, it's going to take some time!

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Edited by pa59ul, Jan 11 2017, 07:28 PM.
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zxr2
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hi pa59ul

good luck with the rebuild if you need any pointers check out my zxr750h2 thread below in projects plenty on there to help you on your journey we are all here to help

regards harry
Edited by zxr2, Jan 18 2017, 04:45 PM.
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pa59ul
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Thanks for that Harry,

take a look at the pics......... this is going to be fun!..... Not! :256
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Edited by pa59ul, Jan 20 2017, 06:02 PM.
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zxr2
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pa59ul
Jan 20 2017, 06:01 PM
Thanks for that Harry,

take a look at the pics......... this is going to be fun!..... Not! :256
ouch those have not seen any grease for a very long time :256 just proves my point when these bike shops say FULL service unless you specify you want them checked they don't get done be interested to see the state of your headrace bearings :fdq

there's links in my thread to places I got my parts from and links to online fiche to get part numbers USA is a good source most parts are the same except carb's

keep the pictures coming bud :kawa

regards harry
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pa59ul
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Actually, Harry, the head races were fine! Couldn't believe there was plenty of grease on the tapered rollers.

At the moment, the biggest problem, from building a rolling chassis perspective, is getting hold of a new swingarm bearing sleeve. I used to use a company called CMS, who give the price of a new sleeve as 55 euro. Sadly, these are currently unavailable.

My best hope is that someone lists one on ebay, but it's more likely that I'll have to buy a complete second-hand swingarm to get one.

Managed to get a complete, very good condition shock linkage with pins, for a tenner (!) from a local breaker, but lucked out with the bearing sleeve/swingarm. Going on a job soon where we will have an on-site machinist, and should be able to get a reasonable replacement made ( bottles of whisky being coin of the realm when asking for a favour for home).

Will battle on with the forks, meanwhile, and see what nice surprises show themselves. I know the seal on one leg is blown, but might as well check the bushes while I'm in there.

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Edited by pa59ul, Jan 30 2017, 06:54 PM.
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zxr2
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hi bud
yeh I feel your pain finding parts ill see what I can find ;-)
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pa59ul
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Hello fellas,

Just had a 10-day stint in our factory which, luckily, gave me access to the beadblast cabinet.

Managed to blast/primer the fairing bracket, rear light bracket, rear grab handles, shock mount bracket & dog bones. Dropped a clanger with the exhaust system, though. whilst doing the four downpipes, which were very rusty, I managed to blast the rear of the system downstream of the collector , after which, it's a stainless single pipe.... Doh! Had no option but to blast the rest of the pipe to make it a uniform finish, but I'll now have to paint the whole of the system, so no more shiny end bit. Already had some stove paint from B & Q which I've used on my TL100s headers. Will use this as planned, to paint the downpipes and collector, but might use a satin-finish on the single pipe to the can, engine laquer or similar.

Did find a couple of pinholes in the downpipes, close to the collector area, but sealed these with Metal-Set (one of those epoxy-metal fillers, this one by Loctite, so should be ok).

Also had time to rub down the wheels and give 'em a repaint. Took a wheel in to Autopaint in Bentley, Doncaster (giving them a special mention as they were really helpful) to have them analyze the wheel colour, and knock up a rattle-can-full... £10.50 inc. VAT! Top boys! (and girls).

Will post some pics of work done, and still to do, when opportunity allows. Got to take the grandson to his football game this morning, and then to watch the Rovers this afternoon.

Ok, here they are.

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Edited by pa59ul, Feb 4 2017, 09:46 AM.
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pa59ul
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forgot to mention with the pics in my previous post; the silver painted items have been painted with a zinc-based paint. The dog bones and front fairing bracket are in the front line for any crud thrown up by the front wheel, so are getting an extra layer of protection after shotblasting.

Here's a picture of the shock, after a little work. pics say it all. The red topcoat on the spring is marble italian red, from a rattle-can I needed for my TL. pressurised shock to 150psi after changing the oil, and schrader valve components. Should work as good as new.
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Edited by pa59ul, Feb 4 2017, 10:00 AM.
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zxr2
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hi Paul
looking at picture of your exhaust headers my advise is to replace them with a micron system. I done the exact same as you I welded my exhaust up, picture this motoring up the M11 going to Silverstone to watch world superbikes speed around 90mph ish ;-) then I "pooed" myself the downpipe on number 3 cylinder just broke at the collector it was rotten from the inside.

If you can afford it bud id would strongly advise you replace the header with a stainless set Mircon are IMO nicely setup for old Kawasaki's with a K&N air filter

regards harry
Edited by zxr2, Feb 6 2017, 04:47 PM.
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pa59ul
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Thanks for that, Harry. Had been looking on ebay at a new set of downpipes, as the end can I have is ok. Couldn't find a micron system, but will have a look at Demon Tweeks' website for one. Best available I saw on ebay was a set of 'Black Widow' stainless downpipes, for £220. Seems a decent price. will worry about this later, as I really want to get a rolling chassis first. Only shotblasted/painted the exhaust recently, 'cos I was working in the factory where I knew there would be access to the shotblast unit on the quiet, and I couldn't pass up the opportunity. Same goes for all the bits I did at the same time.

Working on a customers' site from next Monday, for six weeks or so; Need to crack on while I'm there. Need to make a 'press' out of a couple of steel plates and some 20mm stud bar, so I can use a bottle-jack to press the new wheel bearings in, now the paint's done. Will then use one of the lengths of stud bar as a 'screw jack', to fit new needle bearings into the swing arm, as the old ones were destroyed (pics of this, and the bearing sleeve, in an earlier post). Finally, I need to ask our on-site machinist to knock me up a new bearing sleeve out of a scrap ' Durahete' (a very high-quality steel alloy) bolt. A decent bottle of whisky is the accepted method of payment in this instance!

Just don't know how I'm going to find the time to do my day job!

ps Harry, it appears that Micron ceased trading a number of years ago. Don't know what chance there is of finding a set of headers now!
Edited by pa59ul, Feb 7 2017, 08:56 AM.
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zxr2
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oops didn't know micron had ceased dam :-(
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pa59ul
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OK, so until I get back to work, still plenty to do to the other bike components, Stripped the forks A.F.A.P, now need a hexagonal holding tool to get the cartridge out of the fork bottom. Got to get this out, as I tried to slacken the cap screw under the fork leg, hoping the spring pressure would stop the cartridge going round with it...... No such luck. Will have to make a holding tool at work. Never ending, innit?

Also stripped the front brake calipers for overhaul. Don't think it should be like I found it! (see pic). Removed the dust seals and piston seals (have already bought the spares, as it's a job worth doing), and scraped out the crud from the seal grooves, as it's this that, as it builds up over time, causes the seals to 'grab' the piston, causing drag, and brake bind. I use a wooden skewer for this, nothing metallic!

After a good clean with solvent cleaner (free from work, naturally!), it's into the ultrasonic bath for a proper deep clean. Bought this a few years ago from ebay, and while it's only a cheapo one, it's unbelievably good. I just add a little of the 'Flash' gel the wife uses for the floors. Top stuff! check out the pics.
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Edited by pa59ul, Feb 7 2017, 03:48 PM.
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zxr2
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swing arm look complete but no bolt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KAWASAKI-ZXR750-ZXR-750-L-SWINGARM-1993-1995-/282326906937?hash=item41bbfeb839:g:32MAAOSw-0xYT5AP
undertray http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZXR750L-ZXR750-L-Undertray-Under-Tray-/221039938101?hash=item337701ca35:g:snwAAOSwAHZUNP2b

exhaust system http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZXR750L-ZXR750-L-1993-Exhaust-System-Silencer-Muffler-Downpipes-/351894174019?hash=item51ee86f943:g:vQ8AAOSw4GVYGIXt

hugger http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-ZXR750-L1-3-93-95-Rear-huger-STD-/351724261304?hash=item51e4664fb8:g:nJQAAOSw2x1XKbVF
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pa59ul
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Hello Harry,

Thanks for the links. Contacted the guy with the swingarm about this, and quite a few other bits he'd got, but the ignorant "oops" never replied. His place is at York, which isn't too far from me. Think I'll take my cash elsewhere, then.

The undertray looks different to the one on my bike (see pics, and the butchery applied!), but Haynes manual suggests one like this, but with a number plate bracket attached. Wish I knew what I should have! Could do with someone with an L version to send me pics of the standard set-up. Might have to ask in other parts of the forums for this.

Saw the exhaust system, too, but the end can I have is fine. Think I'd rather put an extra £40 on the asking price, and buy the new downpipes from Black widow, at £220.

The hugger looks fine, but the price seems a bit salty (Tightwad?....... Me?). There's a guy from donny (MT M/cycles) who advertises on ebay, got a reasonable one, which some dude has painted YELLOW! Got plenty of free time and lots of black paint, so £30 looks better all the time!

Meanwhile, took the fork legs to Zuma spares in Doncaster. Had to go anyway, for a pair of the spring clips that retain the seals in the forks, retaining pins and 'R' clips for the brake pads in the calipers, and a few other bits&bobs. Lad in the shop took the legs, dicked about to make a holding arrangement for the fork cartridge, and used an impact gun to get the bottom capscrews out of the fork leg. Took him almost an hour, charged me a fiver. Top boy!

Just got to give the fork tubes and cartridge a thorough clean, then rebuild them. BTW, using Valvoline 5W synthetic fork oil in the forks and the rear shock. This is currently nine quid a litre from Halfords, but you have to order online, and pick it up from your nearest branch. Can't imagine getting quality synthetic, not mineral, fork oil cheaper anywhere. If you are considering doing yours, get on it!
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Edited by pa59ul, Feb 9 2017, 11:12 AM.
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pa59ul
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Okaay...

Nothing much done lately. Had to work away from home for the last five weeks. Still no resolution to the problem with the s/arm bearing sleeve. Have tried every Kwak dealer in the country and beyond (Lithuania!), but it appears none are available. If you have the same bike, get it apart, and get it re-greased!

Had time to clean the steering head components, after first drilling out the "non-removable" 6mm bolts from the underside of the ignition switch. What a "oops" pain! Thankfully, the head bearings were well-greased, and in good condition. Also fitted the five new bearings, and grease seals, to the wheels and sprocket carrier. Fitted the discs, and now ready to refit the tyres, and get 'em balanced up. Onwards and upwards, then!
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Edited by pa59ul, Mar 21 2017, 07:53 AM.
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pa59ul
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well, in the absence of the swingarm sleeve, still a lot to fettle. Emptied the garage to be able to work. Had to stick the other old piles of scrap in the yard, but at least they didn't get rained on.

Used the old 'sugar-water' trick to get every last bit of rust off nuts, bolts, and the front wheel/rear wheel/swingarm spindles and spacers (see photo). It still amazes me how good this works!

Also finished off the front brake calipers to a decent standard, ready to go on when the front end is on the bike, which shouldn't be too long.
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Edited by pa59ul, Mar 25 2017, 09:31 AM.
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JesterYHZ
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:445 Looking good. Just saw this post, as I haven't been on here in a bit. I feel your pain. I'm doing up a 1984 ZN750 LTD shaft drive and am having my share of challenges too...lol. If you have the time, check out my progress on the ZN 750 Rebuild thread I have on here.

I hope you have fun with the rebuild. I love doing stuff like this and am having a blast. Like you, Pa, I have access to a bead blaster at work too ( I use glass bead, as our plastic bead blaster is reserved for jet engine turbine blades only, and we don't have a soda blaster)

As for parts, I find Partzilla.com has a wide variety of older parts as well as Z1enterprises.com. They are in the US, so are convenient for me (Canada). Not sure what shipping to your area would be.

Anyway, best of luck and keep the pics coming!!

Regards,
Ian

PS: here are some before / after pics of my engine just as an example
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pa59ul
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Hello there, Ian,

That looks like more than a few hours, well spent! My problem wasn't so much lack of regular cleaning, just a lack of regular (if any!) maintenance. The bike looked in reasonable condition on the outside, it was when I took it apart the real dross was revealed.

Having said that, I think that your bike didn't look too bad, given the weather out there. I've worked in Ontario and Alberta, and the one thing I do know is that you guys have only two seasons; "oops" hot, and "oops" cold! I'm sure the neglect on yours could have been a lot worse!

However, as you've said, it's quite gratifying when you see the results of all your hard work. Guess I'll have some more of that, then!

Regards,

Paul.
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JesterYHZ
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:445 Hi Paul:
I had a few minor issues when I took the engine apart too. Nothing too serious, just a burn hole in #1 piston (see pic) and I had to re-shim all the valves. I only replaced the burnt piston, as when I cleaned the other ones up and measured them, there was hardly any wear on them. same for the cylinders. A new set of rings and a gasket kit was all I needed to put it back together.

I failed to mention in my previous post, but this was a barn find. It had been sitting there for 10-11 years. I haven't heard it run yet, as I'm waiting to get some new ignition coils and plug wires. ($$ is the issue, not availability...lol). The exhaust system was some Frankenstein thing someone had welded together, and its rusted to Hell and back, so I'm also wanting to replace that too. (You don't have $1500 kicking around doing nothing, do you? :693 )

So the project continues. Hopefully I can have it on the road this summer.

Regards,
Ian
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pa59ul
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Hello Ian,

I know OEM spares are expensive, but I'm glad you can get them! been trying to get a new swingarm bearing sleeve for the zxr, but not one in the UK. Unlubricated needle bearings had eaten into the sleeve, rendering it useless (or so I thought, see pic in earlier post). took it to a local bike shop, who cut the thing in half, turned the damaged portion into the centre, and welded it back together on a mandrel to keep it parallel. What a guy!

Installed new bearings into the swingarm, installed the sleeve, and fitted to frame to start a kind of 'dummy build', to make sure all is well. Fitted the refreshed shock and linkages, then cleaned all the old grease from the head bearings, ready to re-grease and re-fit. Then noticed this....... (see pic). it's kind of hard to see, and the damage seemed slight, until I ran a finger over it.

Missed this on stripdown, but the bearings have worn ridges in the cups and cones. No alternative but to change 'em, as the bike won't pass the MOT test with 'notchy' steering. As I said, the bike looked fine from the outside!

Be glad when it all comes together...... eventually!

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Edited by pa59ul, Mar 28 2017, 05:10 PM.
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pa59ul
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All righty, then!

Steering head bearings and seals arrived. Fitted these to the bike. Good thing the next-door-neighbour had a suitable bit of tube to act as a bearing driver for the steering stem bearing, or I'd have been stuffed.

Fitted the handlebars, the refurbished forks, the wheels and the subframe, and hey presto! I got me a rolling chassis!

This is all loose-bolted together at the mo, just to make sure I've got it right. Got to take the swingarm off at some point, anyway, to refit the chain. Gonna start hanging the brackets on it, plus the shiny bits like the footrest assemblies, brakes. ets, just to reduce the number of loose parts that are strewn willy-nilly in the garage and the shed. Once I've gone as far as I can, I'll tackle the engine, then carbs, and the cooling system. Turned 58 last Friday; hope I've still got time........
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Edited by pa59ul, Apr 3 2017, 05:03 PM.
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Mjollnir
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Looking real good, wish I had the facilities you have access to, mine's a Z750E1, parked in a mates shed, so can only work on it when he's not working. Read this for the first time last night, really impressive job you're doing. It will be better than new when you are finished
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pa59ul
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Hello Mjollnir,

Thanks for that. It's just sad that no maintenance of any description had been done, which made the job more difficult. Luckily, I heard the bike run, and rev, before I pulled it apart. Hopefully, the engine and carbs won't need too much TLC, maybe just a strip & ultrasonic clean for the carbs, and a new set of piston rings, light valve regrind, shim check, and camchain/tensioner check for the engine. All this when time allows, of course.

As you rightly say, working in mechanical engineering has made life RELATIVELY easy for me to get stuff done, and having a shed AND small garage does indeed help. The only work I think I can't do myself will be the bodywork repairs, and paint. Have included a pic of the bodywork after cleaning, but you can't see all the cracks from here!

Having said that, I have a spare panel to practice on, and know a guy at work who used to spray cars for a living, so who knows?

By the way, let's have a pic of the old girl!

Regards, Paul.
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Edited by pa59ul, Apr 4 2017, 09:08 AM.
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Mjollnir
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I'm going to be doing some bits on it tomorrow, I'll try and remember to take some photos
Regards Mj
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pa59ul
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As I said in a previous post, The plastics on the zxr are pants. great from a distance, but not so, close up. Saw this on ebay ( 262889095292 ), and wondered if anyone with an L-model had bought one. It would do as a stop-gap, at that price, while I took my time with the original to get them right. Let me know if you've got one fitted; can't see any cut-outs for the indicators, though.
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rex
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good god was that clutch fluid or gravy i'm betting on gravy
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pa59ul
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Hello Rex,

sorry for taking so long to reply. Nightshifts tend to make me forget to catch up. To be honest, the clutch fluid has been the least of my problems. See the posts about the swingarm spindle and suspension linkage!

Not done anything to the bike in recent weeks as work commitments have taken me north of the border, and will be here for another couple of weeks before the garage door goes up again. Will start hanging bits on my rolling chassis when time allows, before being dispatched to the south coast from mid-June until mid-August.......... no rest for the wicked, eh?
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pa59ul
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Hello Guys,

no post for a while due to work commitments. Finally took the clutch slave cyl apart, and found this...... New seal ordered! started to put the bike together a bit more, just hanging it all on to determine if I haven't lost anything.

started examining the wiring loom and multi- plugs, and found time-related corrosion had taken it's toll.....

Stripped back the wiring loom, and repaired the damaged section to the fuse box wiring. Rest of the loom to check when time allows.
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Edited by pa59ul, Jun 5 2017, 07:15 PM.
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pa59ul
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Hello Fellas,

Also had time to take a look at the alternator and starter motor. all good inside, surprise surprise! Even the brushes had enough meat on them to do another 28k miles!
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pa59ul
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Hello Fellas,

Been a bit busy of late, but had time to strip the bank of carbs, and clean and rebuild 'em. Found the pilot air screws not to spec. (one and a half turns out, instead of two and a quarter turns out from fully screwed in) , and the float heights incorrectly set (should be 13mm+2mm max, but were more like 10mm).

Everything restored to how Kawasaki intended. Found the float bowl gaskets to be perished, but found a sufficient length of 1.65mm viton rubber to do all four in my trusty o-ring kit, which was just the job.

Working on the South Coast for the next eight weeks or so, so the build will continue when time allows.
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Edited by pa59ul, Jun 18 2017, 08:08 PM.
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pa59ul
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Hi all,

Had a couple of hours before setting off to work on the south coast for a few weeks. Since they have an ultrasonic tank at work big enough to get a truck engine in, it would be rude not to make use of it!

Pulled off the valve cover, removed the head and barrels, and stripped out the valve assemblies (pictured). Was surprised and delighted to find everything in decent nick. Will get the head and barrels in the tank when time allows. Gonna be a few weeks before I get 'em back home, though. At least they'll be better than when I stripped them out.

Incidentally, the head gasket is a 3-layered affair. took a pic, but it's not very clear. Does anyone know if these are re-usable?
Attached to this post:
Attachments: barrels.jpg (1.56 MB)
Attachments: removing_valve.jpg (1.66 MB)
Attachments: gasket_1.jpg (1.78 MB)
Attachments: gasket_2.jpg (1.77 MB)
Attachments: valve_and_springs.jpg (1.56 MB)
Edited by pa59ul, Jul 20 2017, 08:23 PM.
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pa59ul
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alrighty, then!

got back home for the weekend, having done my two-weeks stint. The ultrasonic clean, at work, got a lot of the crud off the engine barrels and cylinder head. Used a 'loctite' gasket remover to get the last of the remaining carbon deposits out of the exhaust ports. The exhaust valves, however, and the inlet valve faces that live in the combustion chamber, will require some sort of mechanical cleaning, eg wire brushing, to remove the deposits of combustion. (see pic).

Surprisingly, the piston tops cleaned up nicely with a spray of gasket remover, which was left on for a couple of hours, to soak in. These pictured, along with the head and barrels.

Also had an absolute blinder of a result with the works machinist! Told him about my woes (see earlier posts) in trying to source a new swingarm bearing sleeve. He asked what was needed, and produced it three days later from a scrap 'Durahete' (a special, tough alloy) bolt! Got a case of beer in the car boot for him on return to work on Monday. Top guy!(see pic).

Also had time in the evenings to watch every youtube video made on 'how to repair ABS fairing panels'. The best one (for me, anyway, as I can source the materials from work, gratis), is to dissolve small pieces of ABS from plumbers' waste pipe, in acetone. This is made to the consistency of clear, runny honey. The cracks in the panel are then prepped to give a 'furrow', each side of the crack, into which the ABS 'sauce' is the applied. Boy!, does this work a treat, or what!

The previous owner had bodged a makeshift repair, using filler paste, to the fairing panels. When stripping this back off, I discovered he'd drilled a series of small holes in the panel, to allow the filler to 'grab' both sides of the crack. Had to clamp the end of the crack at the panel edge with mole grips, gouge a furrow both sides of the panel, along the length of the crack with a special rotary burr/cutting tip for plastics (from work), and made up and applied the sauce.

What a result! The acetone softens the panel plastic, allowing the filler paste to chemically bond with it. Turn it over, repeat the dose, and hey presto! A panel repair that is as strong as the panel itself! Wish I'd taken pics of the cracks, and the prep work, before starting, but forgot. I did, however, take pics showing the initial runs of plastic sauce, once set, and the layer of plastic sauce ladled on to fill the drill holes. Plenty of sanding down required then, methinks! It's gonna have to wait a while though. Time for another two-week stint on the south coast after the weekend.

I'd better start looking at the youtube videos entitled 'How to repaint fairing panels with aerosols' now, I suppose!
Attached to this post:
Attachments: after_a_bath.jpg (1.95 MB)
Attachments: first_pass.jpg (1.72 MB)
Attachments: second_pass.jpg (2.5 MB)
Attachments: new_swingarm_sleeve.jpg (2.2 MB)
Edited by pa59ul, Jul 30 2017, 08:26 PM.
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pa59ul
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Hi Folks,

It's been a while, mainly due to having a minor stroke, and then Bells' Palsy! Knocked the running out of me for a time, mainly because the paralysis in my face made seeing things difficult; however, things must progress if I'm gonna finish this beast.

after lapping in the valves, went on a spending spree for new cylinder head and base gaskets, valve stem seals, piston rings, and circlips. Removed the sump pan, and cleaned out the suction strainer. blued up the sump pan mating flange, and fashioned a new gasket. all valves now back in position, running in new seals. Was on a bit of a roll by the time it came to reassembling the engine, and then it all came to a shuddering halt...........

Installed No.3 piston (inside ones fitted first make life easier), gudgeon pin in, then found the circlip that retains the pin is too small! Part No. says this is 18mm diameter, which they are, but it's too small. searched another Kawasaki spares site, same part No, and the diameter is shown as 20.5mm!! What the hell is going on!

So the project is now held up, until my local bike shop can work out what's gone wrong. Not really bothered what the issue is, I just need the correct size circlips to continue. Luckily, the size is pretty generic for most of the jap manufacturers, so getting some shouldn't be an issue. Have a look at the pics thus far.
Attached to this post:
Attachments: final_clean_after_lapping_in.jpg (1.94 MB)
Attachments: lapping_in.jpg (2.01 MB)
Attachments: pretty_good__methinks_.jpg (1.69 MB)
Attachments: new_seals_in_place.jpg (1.65 MB)
Attachments: making_the_new_gasket.jpg (1.34 MB)
Attachments: ready_for_build.jpg (1.92 MB)
Attachments: first__No._3__piston_and_new_rings.jpg (1.78 MB)
Edited by pa59ul, Sep 18 2017, 02:29 PM.
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pa59ul
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ok, so it's back on with the build. The circlip issue? There wasn't one! It's my poor eyesight due to the Bells' Palsy! The 18mm circlips were fine. Fitted all the pistons, then the new base gasket, then used jubilee clips of the right diameter (70-odd mil) as piston ring compressors. Dropping on the barrels was a piece of cake (see photo). Fitted the head gasket, managed to cajole the wife to give me a hand to hold the camchain, and slipped on the cyl head, torquing the head down in the proper sequence.

have included a photo of the No.1 cyl. No.1 inlet valve, and it's proximity to the internal cyl. casting. Meant to do this earlier, but forgot. This was an absolute swine to get the collets in and out, defeating the attempts of my trusty old spring compressor. Found a solution by butchering an old 14mm spark plug socket (see pic), and using a 150mm G-clamp to compress the spring, the cut-outs in the socket allowing access to those pesky little collets. Hope this helps someone with the same predicament.

Next job is to refit the rocker spindles, rockers, and camshafts, not forgetting to slip the shims atop the valve stems. Have already sized the shims with a micrometer, double-checking with a vernier (paranoid???... Me?), so once the camchain tensioner is refitted, and the timing is correctly set, I can take feeler gauge readings of the valve clearances, and will know exactly which shims I can swap, or will need to order, to get the clearances spot-on.
Attached to this post:
Attachments: awkward_valve.jpg (2.18 MB)
Attachments: cut_down_socket.jpg (1.36 MB)
Attachments: barrels_on.jpg (1.51 MB)
Attachments: cyl_head_down.jpg (1.61 MB)
Edited by pa59ul, Sep 22 2017, 05:33 PM.
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pa59ul
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Hello all,

After refitting the rocker arms and spindles, valve shims and camshafts, I had a bit of a struggle with the camshaft/valve timing (many thanks, GpZ Col!), which was eventually resolved. Checked the valve clearances, and, as I'd already checked the thickness of the existing shims, it appeared that I could swap a few shims around to achieve the desired clearances, and would only need to buy 5 new ones to complete the job. These on order. Quite an easy job to do, actually, as you can push the rockers against the springs, and fish the tiny (7.5mm diameter) shims from their positions with a small magnet.

Wouldn't want to drop one down the camchain tunnel with the engine in the frame, though!
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pa59ul
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So, still waiting for the shims to arrive, and still lots to do before the engine gets temporarily refitted in the frame. When I first got the bike, the P.O., who wasn't mechanically-minded, had an oil leak from the the water pump/clutch slave cylinder/gearchange shaft area. He then decided on a belt-and-braces approach, and covered the whole area with a white mastic-type sealant. Luckily, this was the non-setting type, and I managed to scrape it all off (it didn't stop the leak!)

The pic is after the removal of the engine cover, which first needs the removal of the clutch slave cylinder, and the water pump. A new cover gasket was made, and the cover now awaits the seals for the clutch pushrod, the gearchange shaft, the final drive spindle sleeve. Made a new o-ring seal for the water pump impeller housing, and ordered a new o-ring for the water pump drive /housing joint. Hopefully this will make it all oil-tight as Kawasaki intended.
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Attachments: IMG_0894.jpg (2.19 MB)
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pa59ul
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Hello All,

Been waiting for the forum to appear again, after being offline for a week or two (anyone know why?). Anyways, been busy trying to get the bike back together before work gets in the way.

Renewed the seals for the clutch pushrod, gearbox output shaft, etc.(from Simply Bearings; good price, post-free and fast postage!). Slapped it all back together, and got the engine back in the frame, ensuring the engine positioning adjusters were set correctly. Loose-fitted the rad, oil cooler and oil filter, mainly to block up any exposed holes, and final-fitted the generator, starter motor, and carbs. took the airbox apart, and had a nice surprise. The P.O. had fitted a K&N re-usable filter instead of O.E. Cleaned all components ready for fitting when the rest of the gubbins that lives under it are fitted, such as the carb heater pipes, throttle cables, and the wiring loom...... took loads of photos on stripdown to aid re-assembly, but wish I took more!
Attached to this post:
Attachments: new_hose.jpg (2.36 MB)
Attachments: old_and_new.jpg (1.64 MB)
Attachments: ready_to_go_in.jpg (2.5 MB)
Attachments: engine_in_place.jpg (1.48 MB)
Attachments: carbs__generator_and_starter_installed.jpg (2.38 MB)
Edited by pa59ul, Oct 18 2017, 11:55 AM.
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pa59ul
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Ok, due to my reluctance to sit in a cold shed, no progress has been made on the bike, until now..... Got the nose fairing out of the loft, as I knew it was a mess, and had been thrown together after sustaining damage. What I want to do is repair all the fairing panels PROPERLY, and fettle the mechanicals of the bike in between times, cold weather permitting .

If you take a look at the nose fairing photos, you can see the P.O. lashed it together with spit and sticky tape. Take a look at the photos with "inner" on them, and you can see the bits of metal, including a machine screw (!) the P.O. used as stregthening media he embedded in the Araldite (or whatever it is). Jeez!

Drilled holes at the ends of the cracks in the fairing, to prevent the cracks running further. The plan is to groove out the cracks with a cutting bit made for plastics, on the outside surface of the fairing, and fill this with the homemade ABS repair paste shown in an earlier post. This should then make the cracks stable enough to groove out on he reverse side, once all the crappy araldite and supporting hardware is removed, and fill with paste. The panel should then be as strong as it was before the damage occurred. Got to go back to work after the weekend, for another 3wks, so need to crack on!
Attached to this post:
Attachments: cutting_bit.jpg (2.5 MB)
Attachments: inside_front_rt.jpg (2.44 MB)
Attachments: front_rt.jpg (2.07 MB)
Attachments: front_rt_grooved_out.jpg (2.24 MB)
Attachments: front_rt_in_place.jpg (1.33 MB)
Attachments: front_rt_first_run.jpg (1.5 MB)
Attachments: inside_rh_btm_edge.jpg (2.1 MB)
Attachments: rh_btm_edge_grooved_out.jpg (2.29 MB)
Edited by pa59ul, Apr 7 2018, 11:15 AM.
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