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| help on an 84 gpz900 | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Dec 16 2006, 09:26 PM (1,359 Views) | |
| kawabunga | Dec 16 2006, 09:26 PM Post #1 |
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My brother bought a 1984 gpz900 off ebay. The carbs were gummed up and after 3 removals, clean outs, and installs, i found where the trash was comming from. The previous owner had creamed the tank...but with out proper prep and didn't drain off surplus resulting in large chunks of cream material seperating dut to the mass/weight and the rust behind it. With alot of time and a mini vac, I was able to get the cream junk out and cleaned the tank multiple times and finally got the carbs cleaned. We had a great day ride and the bike seemed to be working great. The next day, it would hardly start, and would'nt stay running. The carbs are clean. I don't think it's getting good spark. With a plug out and resting on the head, the spark is so faint, it's barely visable. The previous owner had rewired the coils and all the wires are blue...well the were blue until he sprayed the entire frame with black paint...tracing wires is a challenge to say the least. Im' not great with electrical stuff, so I'm sort of at a loss. Any body got any ideas? I look forward to this forum and hopefully meeting some of you in the future. Kawabunga |
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| dogdragon | Dec 18 2006, 01:00 AM Post #2 |
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Don't know what you mean about creaming the tank, but, like all combustion engines the trouble has to be down to fuel, spark or compression. if the carbs have been cleaned like you say, then that might need to be done a second time, it depends how much crap was in the tank, so first check your sparks, as it's the easiest to check, if not check the carb a second time, I'd advize adding a one way fuel filter into the pipe that leaves the tank to the carb. If the engine is still giving you grief check to see if there is any water getting into the oil... you can see white cream substance in the oil if it's got in. If you can see that, then you have beeing losing compression, and you should replace the headgasket., or at least torque it down a bit further. Hope u get it sorted. Si |
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| kawabunga | Dec 20 2006, 02:43 AM Post #3 |
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Carbs and tank have been cleaned and recleaned...confident that they are infact, clean. I think the problem is with the faint spark at the plug, barely visable...engine will turn over but will not fire...after many attempts at starting, the plugs have fuel residue on them. I do not think it's getting the proper spark, but I can't confirm. Oil is good, no discoloration, no fuel smell. Have sprayed starter fluid (when it was running poorly) around the head gasket area, no rpm increase=no leaks...at least external leaks. As stated above, oil clean=no internal leaks. By the way, Creme is/was a tank coating product to (1) coat or line the tank to close up pin holes from rust. (2) coat the tank after rust treatment to line the tank to prevent rust/silt from constantly draining into the carbs, as you can never get all of the rust out once it starts deteriorating. Thanks for the advice. kawabunga |
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| dogdragon | Dec 23 2006, 02:21 AM Post #4 |
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ok, thanck for letting me know what is happening, and I've been checking the Haines manual for you machins concerning weak pparks,most of them you can rule out of it's happening to all four plugs, it won't be the plugs or the caps or even the coils, if it was the coils you would only have two weak sparks 1&3 or 2&4. So it must be caused by the electrical system. I know that my GPZ RX1000 has low voltage, the machie won't work, it will turn the machine and I get a spark, but the machine won't work. So try a new battery. If that doesnt work the next thing to check is the wiring, the fist place I'd check are the 2 pick ups ( behind a plate on the bottom left of the engine) clean then, the next connector block where the wires leave the engine and joiin the main loom. Just take them out and back into the block, that usualy does the job. If that hasn't done the job let me know. Si |
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| Killer Canary | Dec 30 2006, 03:31 AM Post #5 |
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200 MPH
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There's a fast, cheap and reversable fix that uses an automotive relay to send battery voltage straight to the coils, by-passing all the stock connections. I did it on my 650 and it made starting easier. |
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| kawabunga | Dec 30 2006, 03:54 PM Post #6 |
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Killer Canary, can you provide more details on your relay suggestion? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks |
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| dogdragon | Dec 30 2006, 09:41 PM Post #7 |
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That sounds like a good trick killer, I too would like to learn more.... and how many types of engines will it work on? Si |
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| Killer Canary | Dec 31 2006, 11:11 PM Post #8 |
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200 MPH
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Buy astandard 12 volt auto relay and the pigtail plug for it if possible, a 30 amp weather-proof inline fuse holder with a 10 amp fuse, aroll of 18 ga. wire, a roll of 12 ga. primary wire, crimp-on male and female bullet connectors and apair of yellow crimp-on ring terminals to fit the 12 ga. wire. Disconnect the neg. cable from the battery.Bolt the add-on relay to a fairly protected location near the starter relay. Pin 30 on the add-on relay is connected via ring terminal to the battery side of the starter relay or to the battery + post with the fuse holder installed in this line, remember to load it with a 10 amp fuse.Pin 85 of the add-on relay is connected to a good chassis ground using a ring terminal. Dis-connect the stock coil power wire(red/yellow on old Kawis) and using the 18 ga. wire and bullet connectors connect it to pin 86 on the relay. Make pig tail on the 18 ga. wire in order to plug in both stock connectors. Using 18 ga. wire, connect pin 87 of the add-on relay to the coils where the stock power wires used to be connected making a pig-tail to power both coils.Cable tie for neatness, re-connect battery neg. and start it up. |
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| dogdragon | Jan 1 2007, 03:27 PM Post #9 |
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Unregistered
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Thanx killer, glad I don't need to that to my machine Have fun and a happy new yr. Si |
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| Killer Canary | Jan 1 2007, 09:57 PM Post #10 |
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200 MPH
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It's there if you need it. |
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