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| GPZ 305, Non-Starter; Advice wanted please! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 1 2007, 09:41 PM (1,113 Views) | |
| clevedonal | Apr 1 2007, 09:41 PM Post #1 |
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My GPZ305 has been laid up for a few years, and i decided to try to get it running. It had gotten a bit unreliable - irregular starting, though once going it would run fine. it never 'broke down' once running... Old 'D' plate/26k In the last week, i've changed oil + filter, new air filters, plugs are new, got a big (ex loading-shovel) battery from work. I cleaned out the carbs which were really mucky. fuel filter inserted into line to catch %$£! from the tank. Tried all today to get it to cough or fire up, but no joy at all. i got lights, power, good spark, fresh petrol getting to carbs, engine turns over on the button, though not smoothly - a bit lumpy and starter motor seems a bit noisy and sluggish. i tried disconnecting sidestand switch but that seemed to kill everything. I am loathe to start spending lots of hours and lots of £££'s on what might well be a basket case, it needs fork seals/new tank/unitrak strip etcetera, etcetera, etcetera, (as me old mate Yul used to say) Anyway - if anyone has advice/thoughts/suggestions/distant echoing laughter - i'd enjoy hearing it! I am not an experienced mechanic, and may well have overlooked something obvious, (setup screw settings for instance?) so even if it seems 'simple', any words might prove useful! al |
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| dogdragon | Apr 3 2007, 10:52 PM Post #2 |
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Hi Al I've got to say you have gone through all the things I check when I have problems like that. Are the plugs getting wet????If not, the only advice I can give you is to do check the fuel system again, check the petrol tap, & the carbs. Make sure there are no blockages in the tap & any of the jets. Si www.dogdragons.com |
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| clevedonal | Apr 9 2007, 07:07 AM Post #3 |
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Hi again (thanks to dogdragon for taking the time to write) I got it to fire! (i know - small things....) I removed airfilter and sprayed the airbox very thoroughly with 'superstart' aerosol type stuff and the engine coughed into life, then i switched petrol on and it continued running... then i restarted it on petrol alone and it caught though i could not keep it running for long (in an enclosed garage). So, i've proved that engine is not dead, though any suggestions as to jet (both jets were done up tight in float chamber) & pilot settings (my manual says 1&7/8 turns out!) would be appreciated. and now i have to replace fork seals/oil, (amount/grade of oil?) and get brake system working, so any further tips or suggestions on these jobs would be welcomed! al |
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| dogdragon | Apr 9 2007, 03:35 PM Post #4 |
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Glad you managed to get it running. Soz, I can't tell you how much oil to use in the forks as I haven't got a maual for that model. (my friend has a 305 which he'll sell you cheap for spares if your interested tho) Si |
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| clevedonal | Apr 12 2007, 05:44 PM Post #5 |
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Hi again I got the forks out, and removed the seals. Cleaned all components up and will re-assemble soon. three visits to local bike shop - oil seals, then dust seals, now little rubber rings which go under the top yoke.... between headlamp fitting, yoke. Local bike shop will fit the new seals as i understand they are a nuisance to get in without the right tools. once forks and wheel are in i'll start stripping brakes down as both calipers have seized up. Any advice on this would be appreciated! Unitrack after brakes A guy at work who has an old Z750 told me that his would struggle to start on 'ordinary' unleaded - but would go fine on 'super unleaded' - has anyone encountered this before? Any thoughts? i guess older bikes might have built to run on leaded petrol which has higher octane rating than standard unleaded? - is this the case?? i'll try a gallon of supergas and let you know when i get it back together. DD - wife would shoot me if i brought another bike in! She nagged me like crazy to get some space in the garage for years.... sold my old 500-4 + another (donor bike) end of last year and still have to climb into garage to get stuff from freezer!. But thanks for the thought anyway! al |
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| Dougw650 | Apr 17 2007, 08:37 PM Post #6 |
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Hi ClevedonAl,stipping the calipers should be straightforward,though having said that,you may need an air line to get the pistons out. Check the pistons for pitting.If they are,replace them along with any seals on the caliper.Be careful if you're removing the pins that the pads slide on,they can snap,as can the bleed nipples. While you're at it,replace the brake lines. Give the pins,pistons and the backs of the pads a smidging of copperslip before sticking it all together again. |
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| dogdragon | Apr 18 2007, 10:20 AM Post #7 |
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Nice one doug, not bad advice, thought you should know that you don't need an air line to remove the pistons though, just keep pumping the brake and the brake fluid will do that. Have fun Si |
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| clevedonal | Apr 18 2007, 03:06 PM Post #8 |
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Thanks for taking the time guys I am inching toward forgetting the 305 - needs a new fork tube (£80), probably 2 new brake discs (@£150 pair) + + ++ and then i'll have to get it through MOT.... My hard-earned would be better spent on buying a cheap runner with T&T on it and selling the good bits from the 305... nontheless - thanks for your kind words! al |
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| Dougw650 | Apr 19 2007, 10:05 PM Post #9 |
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Si , thanks,I forgot about that .I was looking at worse case scenario.
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| dogdragon | Apr 19 2007, 10:33 PM Post #10 |
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At least you were willing to help, and you seem to know what you are talking. So don't worry about it too much Doug. Welcome on board the forum. Si |
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| Dougw650 | Apr 22 2007, 01:28 PM Post #11 |
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Dougw650
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.I was looking at worse case scenario.
12:53 AM Jul 11
