| Welcome to Kawasaki Owners Club. We hope you enjoy your visit. We specialise in technical information & assistance for anyone seeking advice for all Kawasaki motorcycles. To gain access to all Forums you will need to become a member. This site is ad free to members. Would new members please post a hello in Welcome to the forum before asking questions on the board Join Kawasakiownersclub.com! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| zzr1100 1990; NO SPARK | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 18 2011, 05:03 PM (998 Views) | |
| VINNI | Jun 18 2011, 05:03 PM Post #1 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Had a weak spark now none starter relay just clicks when i try and start it,new battery on can turn it over if i put a bar across relay ,so wondered if the problem was with the igniter unit,coils,relay or something else? |
![]() |
|
| Mike Folks | Jun 21 2011, 04:04 AM Post #2 |
|
Mike Folks
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.If you cannot get this contact cleaner/presevative, any good plastic safe electrical contact cleaner should work. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again! If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid. If a replacement solenoid is needed,take your bad one to the local riding lawnmower shop, for a lot less than what the dealer wants, you should be able to find a suitable replacement. Be aware a Earth connection might be needed for the new solenoid to work. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not. Check the battery terminals for tightness, they should also be very clean for maximum current flow. Look at the Negative(-) battery cable going to the engine mounting bolt for being clean and tight. I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike......... |
![]() |
|
| VINNI | Jun 24 2011, 08:01 AM Post #3 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thanks Mike i had spent a day cleaning all contact points and connecters,the only place i did not do was inside the head light so will be doing that next.
|
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Tech Talk · Next Topic » |





![]](http://z4.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)



12:28 AM Jul 11
