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| Removing stubborn sump bolt | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 25 2011, 12:48 PM (409 Views) | |
| runnerman | Aug 25 2011, 12:48 PM Post #1 |
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Have tried to remove bolt with spanner and socket, won't budge! Tried hot and cold!! Anyone any super tips please? S |
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| tomgillson | Aug 25 2011, 01:26 PM Post #2 |
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Buy yourself a breaker bar mate, that extra leverage will make the difference. As long as the bolt head is in good shape that is......... |
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| PhilSmith1164 | Aug 26 2011, 10:15 AM Post #3 |
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These sump bolts are such a pain. Why didn`t they make them out of metal instead of putty! I am assuming that your socket is turning on the bolt as it burrs the soft metal of the bolt.( If not then you are just not trying hard enough! Try kicking the end of the wrench with your heel. ) Once the bolt has been rounded you can first try mole grips and if that wont work try filing opposite sides of the bolt until you can fit a smaller spanner neatly and tightly on to the bolt and give it a sharp tap with a big soft mallet Sharp taps are better than sustained force as the former is more likely to free the seizure and the latter will just distort the bolt further. Good luck! |
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| vinny | Sep 3 2011, 11:00 AM Post #4 |
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Try to find a FOOTPRINT plumbers wrench. It is kinda like a pair of stilson jaws but hinges open / closed rather than on a screw thread. The advantage of this is that the more pressure that you apply - the tighter the jaws grip. Also try to increase your leverage - it is better to try a steady constant pressure rather than a sudden shock. Unless you are using an impact driver! |
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| Groningen62 | Sep 5 2011, 12:43 PM Post #5 |
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WD40, heat (run the engine for a few minutes) and impact driver. Steel bolt, aluminium casing, little bit of water and it starts corroding. Had the same problem. Ended up grinding the head of the bolt, drilled it out and re-tapped a new tread in the casing. |
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12:28 AM Jul 11
