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1980 Z250-B1; Restore
Topic Started: Dec 8 2011, 03:14 AM (3,215 Views)
CrazyZX9RC2
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Kawasaki Pilot
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Here's my new project; 1980 Kawasaki Z250-B1. I've always been a fan of the old Z900's from the mid 1970's so when this opportunity came up I couldn't say no.

The photo makes it look better than it is... There's rust and weathering... ...everywhere. It has lots of potential though.
So I'm stripping it back to the bare frame, sandblasting, powder coating and taking it from there.

Normally not a fan of the spoked wheels but I feel it really suits this bike so they'll stay. One change I will be making though will be the drum breaks. I might leave the rear (not sure yet) but will be changing the front for the front wheel of a spoked KZ305A-B as it has a nice disk set-up that'll fit the 250.

Which means I'm looking for a spoked front wheel preferably with the disk, callipers, lines, and master cylinder if anyone has one :466 HAHAH!! but I'll take what I can get :332 if you're in or can ship to Australia and have anything for the Z250 Z350 please contact me!!! (...This may take a while :285 )

I'll also be rebuilding the engine from bottom up. Won't be making any real mods here other than 2 K&N pods. If anything a nice set of FCR twin carbs. :D

Not concrete on the final looks yet, black frame, black paint? Candy red or something candy maybe?. Airbrushing is a passion of mine so I'm thinking about that possibility too......Hotrod flames too tacky?
Anyone got ideas what will suit?? :789

That's about it.
Will keep updates going as things progress.

Cheers, ride safe.
-Spike
zx1
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CrazyZX9RC2
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Minor update.

Spent some many hours with degreaser and steel wool attacking the rust as best I can for now.
Gave her a good wash too. Now she's ready to strip down and rebuild! :sqj


I've also put the pic into photoshop to see how it would look all black, the end result might look something like this...

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CrazyZX9RC2
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Got the frame welded today! :qzq

When i got the bike there was a split in the tubing where the side stand was welded :lxk . This was the result of the previous owner going around a left-hand corner with the side stand down. Then it was welded. ...Then it broke again :exq


I can weld but tube steel welding is an art form.
So I got it welded at BikeCraft and they did an awesome job! :441 Cleaned off all the old weld, fixed the fame and re-attached the stand bracket. They even when that extra step with finishing and not only cleaned up their welding but did it very neatly following the natural curves of the fame. Once powder coated this just might look original to the untrained eye. :055

If your in Melbourne and ever need some welding done or custom bits for your bike these guys are great. It took me 1 hour 40min to get there but well worth it. I called and they were able to book it in almost right away! Friendly customer service too. :023

BikeCraft
53 Governor Road Mordialloc VIC 3195
(03) 9587 5554


Sandbalst and powder coat next....
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kwakjack
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apprentice mechanic
wow, great should clean up a real treat, keep us posted :kbv
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CrazyZX9RC2
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:kaa Cheers :532

A small post regarding engine stands... If in doubt. Buy a cheap but sturdy sand, Measure Twice! Cut Once! Weld! ...Add tent poles and rubber stoppers from kitchen chairs!?!? :693

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"Like a glove!"

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yellowbelly
200 MPH
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Ive got a 1980 a1 z 250 roghly same bike with ally wheels . If your altering the air box exhaust pipes be prepared to battle with re jetting the carbs .The makers spent a lot of developement time on th e airbox etc and it''s nearly impossible to better it If you get more top end you lose performance lower down the rev band its very trcky . Incidently have you thought of building it into a cafe racer ? They look really neat . Try the Kawasaki Twin Owners web site .
Edited by yellowbelly, Dec 18 2011, 11:27 AM.
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CrazyZX9RC2
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Nice, I know the A1. It's got cast alloy wheels and disk brakes front and rear. :711

Thanks for the advice!! :pjy

I guess the ultimate choice has to be made; to restore to original or customise :fdq

It came with the motrad 2-into-1 exhaust system when I got it. My original intention was to remove the air box for pods. Not for performance but just to make it run happy. *tap tap tap* "are you getting enough oxygen?" :hzs

To be honest I have no idea what I'll end up going with. Will be rebuilding the whole engine anyway so a re-jet along the way is no big deal if the original carbs are still good enough. Could always get new carbs too as this is only $100 more expensive than a set of new CV32 diaphragms...

I did think about a café racer but I have to keep reminding myself I'm restoring this to ride because it's a comfortable, slow, economical, awesome, classic, cruzy bike... And because I can't control myself on my 900 Ninja. Cops crush your bike here now and I'd rather crash on the track than let them do it :sao Unless I take it to the salt flats... but I digress
:pqv
At the end of the day I want it to run happy and reliably.
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yellowbelly
200 MPH
[ *  *  *  *  * ]
A lot of USA owners fit a single carb ,DIaphgrams are roughly £60 a pair in the uk that's the lose rubber rather than the Kawasaki Originals which were complete piston replacements .If you get more oxygen in you need more fuel to balance it so you've got to up the jet sizes .
Edited by yellowbelly, Dec 22 2011, 10:53 AM.
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BLACKICE
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BLACKICE
:023
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CrazyZX9RC2
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Yeah diaphrams are about $120 each here. i might leave it stock. i don't know. i've doing my best to avoid rebuilding the carbs unless i really have to. i'll see how it goes.
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CrazyZX9RC2
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How does the saying go? "if you want to make god laugh, make a plan." :fdq

After much deliberation :lkv (i.e. More experience with paints and airbrushing.) I've decided not to powder coat the frame and go with some good paints.

So I've been.... :285
Stripping each part of the frame back down to metal (120 grit paper and steel wool) :sts
Stopping the rust with chemical rust stop (ya there was rust under the paint...) :jgf
Primed with a rust performer / 3 coats (then sand with 3,000 grit) :sza
Topcoat with a semi-gloss black rust reformer epoxy / 3 coats. :xmx

The finish so far looks great, as good as new parts.
Will post pics soon. :wxq

Basic Tips / Paint Prepping:
A good paint finish starts from the bottom up!
If you don't prep your surface enough there is no way to "fix" imperfections with spraying. Basically, even if you're god's gift to spraying, your finish will only be as good as your prepping of the surface. It will pay off.
:dff
So don't cut corners, do sand all paint off and clean metal properly before you start painting, be patient (if you need to be), must between coats: allow the paint to "flash off" completely! As a general rule if you walk into a room and can still smell the paint, it's still drying.
:wwo


Edited by CrazyZX9RC2, Feb 4 2013, 11:53 PM.
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CrazyZX9RC2
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CrazyZX9RC2
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CrazyZX9RC2
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Hi all, i'm back!

and still restoring my z250b1.

It's been years!! and a lot in my life has changed, (married, 11 month old and another on the way).

But i haven't given up. thing are starting to take shape :)

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at the moment i'm working on finishing the engine, just got some cleaning to do. and change the tacho cable and the carb holders/boots/manifolds.


it currently has a 2-into-1 exhaust. parts of the headers are rusted with a couple of pin holes here and there. Worst case scenario i was just going to clean them up, patch them then use exhaust wrap but after some research i've decided exhaust wrap is a bad idea on anything other than stainless. sooooo currently looking around for a set of 2-into-1 headers.
Edited by CrazyZX9RC2, Jul 4 2018, 12:25 PM.
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ChrisGPZ600R
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100 MPH
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Glad you back on it mate. All of us doing these restores know the effort, time and patience involved. :489
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